Friday, January 11, 2008

Arbeit Macht Frei

During our time in Eastern Europe we jaunted to Poland for a 3 day look at Krakow. We began our journey across the chilly landscape in another train ride where we had a great time with our "cabin mates" - the Chladek Family from the Czech Republic. They practiced their English with us and taught us a few words in Czech...it was nice to be around a family. Following that train ride, we hopped aboard another to finish off the rest of our route. Aboard this train we met Jennifer, a grad student from Seattle studying sustainability in Sweden (sounds like a tongue twister). It was a great trip over to Poland - we made some friends!

We made it to Krakow and were welcomed by the Polish Policie...they spotted us jay walking across a quiet street and asked to see our passports (we have jaywalked in every city thus far). Fortunately we weren't ticketed due to the fact that one of the officers had a relative in Chicago, which was his slim connection to us being Americans. We later heard that the Polish cops are often pretty strict and rough, so we were glad to get out of that ticket.

We got to our place, a sweet, old one room flat that was used by the building's doorman. Our shower was built around the "check in window". Fun! Once we settled into our place, we headed out with Jennifer, Sustainable Seattle Gal:), and dined on fabulous Polish food - dumplings, sauerkraut soup, sausage and beer. Then we headed back to bed, feeling the effects of the long train ride.

We woke up early the next morning and went to Auschwitz. Auschwitz was, of course, one of the many concentration camps used by the Nazis during WWII. How can we adequately describe our experience? This quote caught our attention, "Few place names have more impact than Auschwitz, which is seared into public consciousness as the location of history's most extensive experiment with genocide". It was overwhelming and surreal arriving at this place that we have studied in school and heard about for years - the largest Nazi death camp. It was chilling to walk the streets of a place where millions suffered and died - to read details about the mockery of the prisoners, the torture, and the intentional misery the Nazis put the people through. Walking under the camp entrance gate which read in German Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Will Make You Free), was the beginning of our intense experiences at Auschwitz I. We continued to Auschwitz II, called Birkenau, where we were most surprised by the shear size of the camp; it was enormous. We were shocked. There are actually three different parts of Auschwitz, which are situated a couple kilometers away from each other. The part of Auschwitz, called Birkenau, is what I normally picture a concentration camp to look like. Birkenau was a mile long by a .6 of a mile wide; the property was filled with 300 barracks, each of which held 400-700 people. The devastation was incredible. Our words really can't do justice to what we experienced, nor to the gravity of Auschwitz itself. This was an incredible example for us of the brokenness of humanity and of the capacity we have to be so cruel. I can't imagine walking in the shoes of those that suffered this cruelty, the cold, frigid temperatures, the loss of loved ones and the loss of dignity. It is a memory that will never leave us...

We returned to Krakow seeing the city in a different light after having been to Auschwitz. We couldn't help but think about the city and how it looked 65 years ago under the Nazis. We discovered a little while we were there about the Polish people, and how they suffered much doing those years. The Nazis were racist against them as well; and after talking to a local woman there, the affects of WWII and the Holocaust still linger in the culture.

The next day we spent our time strolling around the streets of Krakow, which is beautiful city. Probably a lot more beautiful during the summer with green trees and flowers, and without the super cold temps. And did you know that it is the home of the bagel? Yep, rumor has it that it began with the local Jewish community years, years ago as a way to keep pregnant women healthy. We aren't so sure about the health thing, but we thank them for the bagel!

The highlight of our time here, apart from Auschwitz, were our evenings spent with a beautiful young polish woman named Joanna (Asia) and her son, Schmek (Simon in English). She was our hostess more or less, and was eager to practice her English. This gave us the opportunity to learn more about Poland. Her bright and wise perspective on life was a welcomed change to the cold, gray weather in Krakow and the inhumanities we learned of at Auschwitz. We hope to see her and spunky little Schmek again some day:) There is something about a 4 year old speaking Polish that is super cute!

Do widzenia and do zobaczenia wkrótce!

tim&cor

Pics of Krakow (here)
Pics of Auschwitz (here)
And don't forget to click the (i) which shows up when you move your mouse on the picture in the slideshow for our comments.

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Happy 2008

Happy New Year!
Much love in 2008.

We took a 4 day trip to Poland, that we'll write about in the next entry, and returned to Prague to take in the new year. 2008 will be the year we'll remember taking it in through our ears. The Czech people are nuts about fireworks and our ears paid because of it. It was obviously legal to buy and light fireworks in the streets as we saw people selling them everywhere in the town centre. They weren't pansy either. Honestly, they were the loudest, most explosive ones we've ever been around. Coming out from the metro was like entering a war zone. Cops in riot gear, people yelling, running, laughing, and lighting off fireworks all over the place, even at our feet, which Cory absolutely hated! I read that Czech hospitals see a spike in patients during New Year's because of firework-related injuries! Now we know why! Yeah Fireworks!

New Year's on Charles' Bridge. Go on 2008! Prague Castle in the background on the hill lit up with fireworks as well as the bridge and other sites.



Czech version of "Raining Men", special appearance - Cory Lyons


It's probable this firework was set off by a ten year old kid, no kidding! Below that firework was the war zone we entered from the metro where hundreds of people were strategically positioned, lighting their fireworks at unassuming tourists like us. The area in the foreground was a protected area (no firearms, fireworks, or alcohol) for the concert and the only place Cor felt comfortable.


Her face says it all! The look of terror was on her face all night after running through the war zone. We made our way to Charles' Bridge for the countdown.


Cotton in the ears and Happy New Years - I'm a lucky guy and a poet!


Fireworks from the night of January 1st believe it or not. The firework show was even better this night because the Czech people celebrate their independence on this day! These pics were taken from Keely's amazing apartment on the hill. Thanks again Keely!


Love you all - COr and TIm

Friday, January 4, 2008

Praha, Praga, Prague

Oh, how I miss the land of hot wine, turtlenecks, sauerkraut and sausage already. For the holidays Cor and I skipped town and journeyed east to the Czech Republic. Through the great network of friends we were able to score a place overlooking the beautiful city of Prague. A quick shout to Keely - Yeah Keely! It was ridiculous how hooked up we were this apartment and it truly made our visit to Praha the amazing trip that it was, especially with it being just Cor and I for the holidays.

The trip began with a $0.01 flight on Ryanair from Madrid to Frankfurters, Germany. Yea, that's right $0.01 fare! We didn't have a plan to get to Prague, so after a quick kielbasa, we checked on bus and train tickets. It was the 21st and due to our lack of planning (dang language barrier) we had to shell out what we would have paid for a direct flight to Prague from Madrid in Train coal. Cor and I discussed the illusion we had about "all these cheap trains we could use to get around Europe" when really its pretty expensive. But, none the less, we made it to Prague safe and sound after an 8 hour overnight train ride with some swollen eyes and furry teeth. We drank some tea and tried honey cake, got some Czech Crowns, and started the search for our friends place. We were happy to see at our first stop the holiday spirit in Old Town Centre. A gigantic, real Christmas tree, an outdoor Christmas market, hot wine, and of course the amazing backdrop of ancient baroque architecture seen in churches and other buildings. Týn Church was a real treat to see everytime we saw it. We roamed the streets for a while to get our bearings and later cozied up in the great apartment we were staying at. A great first day!

I forgot to mention that traveling east in Europe gets colder by the mile, a huge difference from the temperate weather we've been experiencing in Madrid. It was stinking cold in Prague and we were glad to have our down with us.

Some highlights of our time in Prague:
  • Tim turning 28 - breakfast in bed, Chili, casual stroll around town, and Vienetta (some of you may remember these treats from the 80s. Awesome.)
  • Toughest Chicks in the World - carp killers (see pic)
  • Keely's Apartment - amazing view of the city, cozy, LOTS of time spent just hanging out catching up on some good reading and watching videos on youTube.
  • Prazsky Hrad or Prague Castle - fortified city on a hill, iconic Gothic church, surrounded by charming, pastel-colored buildings
  • Old Town Centre - Christmas tree, Christmas market, Svařené víno (hot wine), trdelník (turtlenecks as we said it - dry sweetbread covered with cinnamon, nuts and sugar in the shape of a bracelet)
  • Our own adorned Christmas Tree (lemon, orange peel, cut plastic bag, cory's necklaces)
  • New Years Eve, New Years Day (Czech people are crazy about fireworks)
  • Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) - great view of the Vltava River and City, great fireworks display
  • Czech language - we knew absolutely nothing when we arrived and left with only three phrases: Do you speak English, thank you, and hello/good day. Czech has 10 vowels and there are a lot of "Ch" sounds. It was interesting to listen to.
  • Sausage and kraut
  • Really good BEER - pilsner urquell or Plzeňský prazdroj
See pics (here)

timANDcor